misteroverland

Yes I know I am behind on the updates, it’s in part due to lack of Internet but also due to a broken motherboard on my computer so this is now being typed on my iPhone.
We were always going to head for Swakop as this is home for my cousin Moira and we were keen to tap her up for her knowledge of Namibia, as she too is a keen camper, and of course share a couple of glasses of red wine. 
Swakop is a lovely little seaside town, which Namibians flock to in the hotter months due to its mild climate created by the freezing cold Atlantic that brings in regular seas mists contributing to a rich desert ecosystem (at this point though Kevin was seriously sick of being cold and kept checking we were in Africa!). Our days were lazy and a chance to catch up on a couple of housekeeping chores, though we did take full advantage of the seafood (having missed out on oysters in Luderitz). We also booked on to a couple excursions; kayaking with seals and sand boarding, no guesses for who chose what. 
Sand boarding also included the Kalahari Ferrari aka a bendy flat sheet of dense cardboard that you lie head first on and then slide down a sand dune. When I say slide it was more like hurtle as the chap at the bottom recorded our speed at 75km/hr. It’s the kind of activity that when you are shooting down the dune your life actually flashes in front of you … Of course you give it a second go just to check it really was that much fun!

Seal kayaking was a lot more sedate, there was a huge colony of seals frolicking in the water with many of them constantly approaching the boat. 

Moira showed us the local area with a drive into the desert with views of the moonscape and welwitschia plants before driving back to Swakop in the dry river bed. She also managed to join us for a few days as we journeyed further north and became our unofficial guide which was backed up when she wangled herself onto a game drive to search for desert elephants for free saying she was our guide. Nice one!
We meandered up the west coast to Cape Cross which is on the south of the skeleton coast before heading in-land and towards the Messum crater. The plan was to drive until late afternoon and then setup camp. On route we found more of the beautiful lichen which covers the desert, it is said there are about 80 different types some of which beautifully unfold when the mist rolls in – or when sprinkled with water. Kevin also managed to uncover a baby dwarf adder underneath a rock much to Moira’s delight. 

Regardless of the warnings how hot it was up north we were still in thermals that evening and woke up to thunder and 46 drops of rain in the morning. The sheer desolation and isolation of this area is breath-taking, they say you are either a desert person or not, I can see how this sheer silence and solitude could freak people out. 
We were heading towards Twyfelfontein and staying at Rhino camp on the Ugab river on the way. The road to this camp is best forgotten as it raised a number of choice words due to the severe corrugations, at one point we were driving next to the road as it was less bumpy. The drive out the following morning was 4×4 territory, Kevin did an excellent job getting us through. Moira having driven this route and area before kept tempting us with game sightings though 6hrs and 60kms later I was just putting the binocs away when we saw a family of giraffe. There is something really special seeing wildlife in the wild and not a game park where you expect it. 
We found ourselves tracking desert elephants the next day, these animals are adapted to their environment by only having to drink every 2/3 days rather than the circa 100liters per day. We were extremely fortunate to see them and the last group was a mother with her 10 month old calf. Really special experience as once again these animals are living outside of the parks, thankfully the local people are starting to understand their value alive rather than dead. Poaching is still a major issue in Namibia, while high profile lion killings by American dentists make international news sadly what is happening here day in and day out goes without notice to the international community as there was a radio report while we were travelling that 5 loins had been shot for local rituals. 
Our time spent in this area will remain with us forever not only for the great company but also being shown Namibia the Namibian way. Thanks Ruziecki Tours we will be sure to give you a 5 star trip advisor rating 😉 xxx
Photos to follow as soon as possible.