This is a continuation of the Kenyan coastal trip as a photographer to the African History Professor.
Welcome to Tanzania! Traffic jams and Dar are synonymous, what should have been a 30 minute journey from the airport to the car hire depot stretched out to 2 hours! Thank goodness we went to the bathroom before leaving. The delays in the city are caused by roadworks and road closures, the one thing that was utterly amazing was the lack of aggression from drivers and the general obedience of the traffic police and road disruptions even in the sweltering heat. I was dreading the drive from the car hire back into the city centre though this turned out ok with me only beeping the horn once out of frustration.
We ventured out into the streets for an evening meal and this firmly moved Dar back into my good books, I might go as far as to say its one of my favourite cities in Africa. The streets had a community and non threatening feel even when we had to ask directions to the ATM, The street food was particularly delicious with a fantastic fusion of Indian, Portuguese, Malay, Arabic and western influences. Street traders and hawkers also understood the phrase ‘no thanks’ and quickly moved on leaving us to enjoy our meal while perch on the sidewalk. Like all cities poverty is a real issue but again we were not harassed even though we were clearly tourists.
Given the traffic situation we left very early the next morning for the drive south to Kilwa, the roads were fairly ok ignoring the occasional potholed sections which only kept things interesting as I would crazily swerve jolting Harmony out of which ever guidebook was being reviewed. There was no harassment from the local police either and we were stopped once but it was out of sheer curiosity, I am sure the local plates also contributed to our ease of passage so it will be interesting to see the difference when we travel through here with MrO one day.
Harmony had struck gold in finding accommodation (Mwangaza Hideaway) and we were staying in a lovely lodge on the coast, the position of it meant that we were overlooking the mangroves and facing west rather than east as you would expect in this part of the world. Anyone who has experienced an African sunset will know it can really blow your socks off and it didn’t disappoint.
The main reason for a visit to Kilwa was to see Kilwa Kisiwani (kisiwani meaning island) situated just off the mainland it was historically the centre of significant slave trade operated by a medieval Sultan. In between visiting the ruins there was plenty of time for some snorkelling, SUP’ing and just general relaxing. Eddie the owner is looking to start a coral farm in an effort to rehabilitate the marine life as like many places it has gone to ruin due to over fishing. Though over fishing in itself is also just a small part of a very complex situation facing these african coastal villages and marine life in general. Judging from the large amount of accommodations in a state of ruin and the general lack of tourists this little town like so many others is past its heyday also contributing to the difficulties of the locals, though it is still beautiful and hopefully one day will return to great things. I would definite like to come and dive here as the corals off some of the outer reefs are meant to be spectacular.
Back in Dar we stayed with the Salvation Army close to the airport (this is important for later) before heading to the airport the next day. With regular flights over to Zanzibar we figured we could buy ourselves some time and try and catch an earlier flight than scheduled. Once again we left in the dark and following the GPS (note to self it is not a primary navigation device) and wanting to avoid the traffic we didn’t turn onto the main highway but instead were encouraged to turn onto the railway line which thankfully even at 5:45 all my senses were telling me that was not the best idea. Once the GPS had recalculated the route we confidently followed it. Alarm bells really should have been tolling louder! After several dirt tracks and a river crossing (yes we were still in central Dar) we arrived at the airport, just slightly frazzled!
A mad dash for the check-in desk (not sure why we were rushing as flights were hourly or better but there is something about an airport that makes me leg it) and we were on the next flight that was already winding up its prop. Don’t think big UK or American airport, think small planes, carrying your own luggage and running across the tarmac looking for your plane. Another narrow miss as we almost got onto the wrong flight. At last directed to the correct plane I asked for the jump seat and was granted it. I took my co-pilot duties seriously when the pilot having pulled out the ‘directions’ to Zanzibar then promptly lost is pen under the seats. The craziness of the morning and hilarity of getting not only to the airport but across to Zanzibar was almost too much excitement for 7am!
misteroverland 
Brilliant, what an experience Mom
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